By Sonia Esther Soltani
“Go big or go home” could be the underlying theme of 2024’s most covetable jewels. Whether it’s with voluminous pieces, layering, or statement-making colors, self-expression through jewelry is a great way to show confidence and a genuine sense of fun. Here, we highlight some of the key trends that are winning the hearts of jewelry collectors.
1. Voluminous jewels
Estate dealers have reported a renewed interest in jewelry from the World War II era and the 1950s. During the Retro period, designers played on volume and alloys to make up for the shortage of metals and gemstones. For those who prefer contemporary creations, there are plenty of styles to choose from, including power cuffs, extra-large earrings, and cocktail rings. These pieces give a nod to the past while offering a sleek modern take.
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Gigi Ferranti Lucia ring with a cabochon peach moonstone and diamonds in 14-karat gold |
Giorgio B Palma bracelet in 18-karat |
2. Say it with jewelry
Literally. Designers are spelling out messages with diamonds and colored gemstones. Talismanic or light-hearted, these jewels express the desires and aspirations of the wearer. The “tell me your story but make it bling” trend fits perfectly with the penchant for layering, which has yet to go out of style. Another increasingly popular practice is to use symbols and drawings on pendants, signet rings and other types of jewelry to declare one’s personal manifesto.
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Lorraine West Enlighten ring in 18-karat gold |
Imperfect Grace No Limits Token in 14-karat gold |
3. Hoops, hoops and more hoops
US retailers have almost unanimously identified hoop earrings as one of their best-selling categories during the recent holiday season. With the Mob Wife aesthetic — aka the louder, the better — ruling social media, consumers with a passion for piling up jewelry can play with a multi-hoop ear collection or opt for large, diamond-set interpretations of this classic.
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Yvonne Léon Twisted Créoles earrings in 18-karat gold with grey diamonds |
Sorellina Marea hoops in 18-karat gold |
4. Rainbow colors
If you ask retailers which hues are trending, you’ll get answers as wide-ranging as the color spectrum. Tennis bracelets with multicolored stones, rings centering vibrant gems within ombré pavé, and earrings as colorful as peacocks are appealing to collectors who want an instant mood lift or to stand out from the monochrome diamond crowd.
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Lily Gabriella Punk Rock ring set with an octagonal-cut pink sapphire surrounded by a graduated rainbow of pavé gemstones |
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5. Mixed metals
With the price of gold skyrocketing, many designers are looking at silver as an alternative for their largest creations. They are also capturing consumers’ growing interest in white metals. For those who are not ready to forsake yellow gold entirely, jewels that mix two metal tones are a hit. They feel novel and fresh, and they let the wearer harmoniously break the one-metal rule.
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Kinraden Exhaling Her gold and |
De Beers Metamorphosis Prelude long hoop earrings in yellow, rose and white gold with diamonds |
6. Jewelry watches
Cartier’s launch of a new Baignoire series last year set social media ablaze. The revisited horological icon sold out swiftly, with long waiting lists for the next edition. Its success showed the powerful attraction of bracelet watches — a happy medium between a jewel and a timepiece. Hermès, Tiffany & Co. and Chanel have equally attractive models with gold chains and diamond-set dials. Watches featuring textured gold and colored dials (enamel or hard stone) are also having a moment.
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Piaget Limelight high jewelry watch in 18-karat rose gold set with turquoise and brilliant-cut sapphires |
Cartier Baignoire mini model in rose gold |